Celebrity designer Zamaswazi Nkosi has cried foul over a dress featured in e.tv’s hit telenovela Isiphetho: The Destiny.
The dress in question bears an uncanny resemblance to a design Nkosi crafted in 2023 for Mbali Ndlovu, who made headlines for her marriage to a prominent older man linked to polygamist Musa Mseleku.
Speaking exclusively to Sunday World this week, Nkosi did not hold back, expressing his heartbreak over what he alleged was a blatant copy of his intellectual property.
“It is one thing to be inspired, but to replicate my work stitch for stitch? That is a slap in the face,” he said, his voice thick with emotion.
The Soweto-born designer, celebrated for dressing A-listers on red carpets across Mzansi, explained that the dress on Isiphetho mirrors the intricate details of his 2023 creation, right down to its signature silhouette.
Fine line between creativity and theft
“What stings most is the quality; it is nowhere near my standard. When you copy, at least do it better, because now my brand takes a hit.”
Nkosi’s frustration shines the spotlight on a persistent issue in the creative industry: the fine line between creativity and theft.
“As designers, we pour our souls into our work, hoping for recognition, endorsements and gigs,” he said.
“When a big production like Isiphetho commissions a replica instead of collaborating with the original creator, it is not just unethical; it’s a betrayal of the craft.”
Nkosi admitted that he often draws inspiration from social media himself but stressed that he always elevates an idea.
“I don’t just copy and paste. I make it my own, and I do it better.”
This is not the first time a dress has sparked a designer showdown in South Africa.
In 2021, Tamaryn Green, the radiant former Miss SA, found herself at the centre of a similar storm during her ummembeso (a gift-giving ceremony held at the bride’s family home to welcome their new in-laws) with businessman Ze Nxumalo.
Green dazzled in a vibrant blue gown adorned with intricate beadwork, credited to Sello Medupe of Scalo Designs. However, designer Bayanda Khathini was having none of it, claiming the dress was a rip-off of his 2019 creation for actress Nelisiwe Sibiya’s on-screen wedding on Durban Gen.
Khathini went as far as issuing a letter of demand, accusing Medupe of copyright infringement and alleging financial harm after clients ditched him, fearing his designs were no longer unique.
The fallout was fierce, with social media buzzing as fans debated the similarities.
Some argued that beadwork and traditional elements are common in African couture, while others backed Khathini’s claim that his signature style was unmistakable.
Work rooted in Scalo’s techniques
Medupe, for his part, denied the allegations, insisting that his work was original and rooted in Scalo’s delicate hand-beading techniques.
The dispute even headed to the court, though it fizzled out without a public resolution, leaving Mzansi’s fashion lovers puzzled.
Now, Nkosi’s clash with Isiphetho has reignited questions about ethics in fashion.
“I am not here to point fingers without proof, but when people see that dress on TV and recognise my style, only to realise it’s someone else’s name attached [to it], it hurts my livelihood,” he said.
Nkosi said he was considering his next move, including possible legal action, but hopes that the industry can learn from this.
“Let us collaborate, let us credit, let us create, but do not steal,” he said.
When Sunday World contacted public relations officer Nyiko Bilankulu, he said they could not comment on the matter because everything was designed by an agency chosen by the TV channel.
Sunday World reached out to Sumaiya De’ Mar, a fashion lawyer, advocate and director at SA Fashion Law, to shed some light on the matter.
SA’s copyright law
De’ Mar said: “In South Africa, the copyright law protects a person’s right to own their creative products.
“There are various forms of intellectual property law: copyrights, trademarks, patents, and design rights. Copyright law protects the original works of artists, authors, musicians and designers.
“Copyright regulates the exploitation of ‘cultural goods’, such as drawings, paintings, art, and photography, and in this case, design.”
De’ Mar explained further: “One cannot protect an idea for a dress, but once designed, the design of the dress is protected. Independent development is not infringement.
“It should be noted that when two people come up with a similar design independently of each other, the law protects both designs.
“However, if there is a dispute, then the courts will look at the degree of differences as opposed to the similarities.”
Also Read: Former Miss SA Tamaryn Green’s dress puts two local designers against each other
