Mapungubwe’s hidden treasures: Where South Africa’s history and nature come alive

Some places make you want to put your phone away and take everything in. Not because there is nothing to capture but because there is so much happening around you that a photograph is hardly enough.

I experienced a little of that during my recent visit to Mapungubwe National Park in Limpopo. Away from the familiar pace of the city, the visit offered a chance to slow down, take in a different landscape and experience a part of the country that holds far more than its remarkable history.

Natural beauty

The first thing that stands out is the landscape. Towering baobab trees, rugged sandstone formations and wide stretches of open land give the park a character of its own. There is also plenty of wildlife to discover, including elephants, lions, leopards and rhinos. Mapungubwe is home to four of the Big Five, as well as hundreds of bird species.

But beyond its natural beauty lies a history that becomes difficult to ignore once you begin exploring it.

Archaeological discoveries

A guided walk up Mapungubwe Hill with ranger Luula Leonard brought the history closer. We explored the area associated with the ancient kingdom’s royal family, including the enclosure believed to have been occupied by the king.

Leonard spoke about the archaeological discoveries made on the hill, including golden artefacts, pottery shards, beads and human remains. He said around 23 people had been uncovered, including three individuals — two men and one woman — whose remains were found inside a large clay pot. He suggested they might have been senior members of the royal family. He also explained that only a small portion of the hill has been excavated, leaving much more to be explored.

Personal connection

For some visitors, Mapungubwe’s significance is also personal. Leonard spoke about people who return to the hill to connect with their ancestors.

“Some people … come here to perform rituals,” he said.

The relationship between history and living memory was also explored during the Mapungubwe Lecture Series, held from October 23 to 25. Prof Mkhacani Thomas Chauke, an associate professor in African Languages at the University of Venda, highlighted the importance of preserving African languages and the knowledge they carry.

Celebrated storyteller Dr Gcina Mhlophe reflected on heritage, memory and the responsibility of passing stories on to younger generations.

The programme also featured an art exhibition showcasing works by Nthabiseng B Kekana, Mzwanele Tshishonga and TC Maila, developed after their participation in the SANParks Mapungubwe Art Residency.

For Nthabiseng, creating her artwork became a ritual of tribute to her ancestry. After completing it, she burnt the materials used in her creative process as a symbol of letting go. She explained that the work did not belong to her but to the ancestors she honoured and the people who would experience Mapungubwe. Rather than seeing it as an exhibition piece, she described it as an offering.

What stayed with me about Mapungubwe was how these different experiences came together. It is easy to know a place through the stories told about it but being there offers a different perspective.

Somewhere between taking in the landscape and listening to its stories, I found solace in Mapungubwe. It was a reminder that sometimes, stepping away from the familiar is what we need.

• Moumakoe visited Mapungubwe National Park and World Heritage Site as a guest of SANParks

Sunday World